tackling pudu

tpgac1

From top left: local peppers organized in neat piles for transactional ease; ginger buds are just about the most beautiful and amazing tasting spice in this part of the world; a vendor tallies the total for each bunch of petai (or stink beans); bananas, bananas everywhere

Like a mountaineer perched atop Everest, I have finally conquered.

Last week, I paid a visit to Pudu Market, the largest open-air market in Kuala Lumpur and home to over 1000 vendors.  It wasn’t my first time; three weeks after the hubby and I moved here, we brought our first set of visitors from the US to the market around noon, just as the activity was winding down for the day.  The place was in disarray as vendors splashed away chicken blood and other waste with buckets of water, and the whole place was a steaming, sweltering mess.  We’d gone in search of street eats, but even those seemed to be largely finishing up their daily business, so after about a half an hour of wandering aimlessly, we headed on to greener pastures.


Ever since then, Pudu has both intrigued and taunted me, kind of like an 800-pound silverback gorilla living in my backyard.  It’s one of those places I knew I needed to muster up the courage to tackle, but I just hadn’t managed to, especially when I have my favorite market just around the corner from where I live.

tpgac2Left, making floral offerings for Hindu temples; right, freshly burning joss sticks outside a shop

Luckily, a friend clued me in to a walking tour of Pudu, and so I finally had my chance to explore the market under the guidance of a local.  We met early that morning, just before the heat started to beat down on us.  Even before we entered the market, Pudu was a wealth of sights, including spiritual ones.

tpgac3Left: why not take a nap above some gigantic jackfruit?; top right: a man bundles up an enormous pile of green onions; bottom right: the entrance to the market shows layers and layers of activity inside

Once inside, the people provided as much entertainment as the products available.  I tried resisting buying too much, since I’m ever loyal to my vendors at Imbi Market, but I couldn’t help myself when a man rolling an oil barrel filled with peeled garlic offered me a sack for only RM 5 (less than $2 US dollars).  After that, it was all downhill from there.  I bought A1 grade chili paste (did you know that ground chilies here have grades, like meat?), lemons, a bundle of green onions, and a bunch of sweet potato leaves, one of our favorite local greens.

tpgac4Hacking open coconuts for grating, making milk, general merriment

Everything imaginable was up for sale at Pudu, even the exotic: sharks, frogs, chicken feet (although that’s pretty run-of-the-mill here).  By the end of the morning, my senses were on overload, and I was a hot, sweaty mess.  But it didn’t matter — as hectic and crazy as it was, the bustle of Pudu felt good, so much so that I’ll probably venture back there sometime soon.  You know, for whenever I feel like making, oh, shark burgers and frog terrine.

Pudu Market | Jalan Pudu & Jalan Yew | Open every day starting at 3:00 AM | Kuala Lumpur
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Conversations 3 comments

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LJsays:

As a person with the last name Jack, I bet “jackfruit” is like the best ever.

 
Rachael M.says:

Great pictures!! I especially love the guy cutting the coconut!!

 
biscuitwheelssays:

LJ: actually, it’s a little like durian, another Southeast Asian fruit, except it doesn’t smell like rotten garbage. It has the texture of soft cheese. I’m not sure what this says about you.

Rachael M: Thanks!

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About me

I’m Ann, a mom / wife / lawyer / certified culinary enthusiast. I share recipes, travel guides and home life tips while living overseas. Currently based in São Paulo, Brazil.

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