Every menu, regardless of which one you choose, starts with an array of cold dishes, including a boiled bok choy leaf wrapped around spicy mustard seeds, a simple carrot slaw with daikon, a pate made from green beans and this dish pictured above that’s actually made from fermented mung beans (a small green bean popular in Asian cuisine).  This dish was one of my favorites — it was earthy and had a slightly gritty texture reminiscent of a good chicken liver pate.  Drizzled with a bit of chili oil, it was a refreshing little bite.

The hot dishes also arrived on small plates meant to give each of the four of us one of whatever was being served up.  My favorite was the tang chu pai gu, a braised sparerib in a sugar/vinegar sauce.  The meat fell off the bone, and the sauce was delicate yet flavorful.

Throughout the night, every dish presented to us resonated that theme of elegant simplicity.  The spareribs were just lightly sauced and highlighted the porkiness of the ribs.  A fried chicken was lightly battered and presented cut into strips (pictured above) and accompanied with shreds of crispy flash-fried water spinach.  The whole dish emphasized crunchiness, which presented in both the chicken and the spinach.  The slightest hint of salt and pepper amplified the dish just perfectly.

Even the courtyard itself was understated — just a few rooms in the hutong, with a narrow shared corridor.  The simple setting for such highly evolved cuisine reinforced my belief that great food happens all over Asia in all sorts of unexpected places.  All it takes is a little faith … and a canceled reservation.

Li Jia Cai | 11 Yangfang Hutong | +86-10-66180107 | Open every evening; reservations are essential